Monday, March 13, 2006

Two birthdays in Dharamsala (hooray time zone differences!)

As if Dharamsala isn't already the coolest, chillest place to wind down a trip in India, I got to spend my birthday there - twice. I figured with the time difference and all, I'd better celebrate two days in a row to cover my bases. That, and the Slav crew (my new buddies from Croatia, Serbia and Slovenia) forgot on the actual day but took me out for lunch the day after. They are some of the greatest people ever (plus Swede Martin and Aussie George) but I can't write too many glowing details about them since I'm giving them my blog address and that would be embarrassing. :P Suffice it to say I love Dharamsala not only because of the mountains, relaxed atmosphere, Tibetan people & culture, random packs of semi-wild dogs, and constant cold rain (a nice change from Orissa), but the western tourists are also some of the nicest, least pretentious, smartest, and most fun I've met so far. Made for a good stay.

I arrived in Dharamsala at 3 am one night and hung out at the outdoor bus station in my wool socks and hat for five hours until I could catch a shuttle up the mountain to the real town. Then found out that the Dalai Lama is about to start a teaching session so the whole place was packed with monks, Tibetans, and tourists, leaving pretty much zero hotel availability. A nice welcome. Luckily I got the last room in a sweet place with cheap internet, good breakfasts, and HEATING (in the restaurant, definitely not the rooms). It was my comfort base and home for the last five days, along with an Italian restaurant where I literally ate 2-3 of my meals each day and sheepishly loved all the non-Indian food!

What I did in the mountains:

- Walked around in the rain a lot. If it wasn't raining, it was cloudy. i.e. We were IN the cloud. I was happy my rainjacket finally saw some action after sitting neglected at the bottom of my pack for five weeks.
- Did some wandering in the foothills with the boys, just trying to get up high for a view and some relaxation. Realized how out-of-shape and weak I was after days of doing nothing while trying to kick the Delhi belly. (100% better now, hooray)
- Hung out with Helena and Irena (Croatian woman working on a cruise ship and opening a kindergarten; Slovenian woman who's a retired cop) - visited temples and monasteries, cafes, and shops (window shopping only for me... I've taken a vow of non-consumerism, mainly to contrast my SE Asian market binges and to protect the bank account).
- Ate lots of chocolate.
- Saw the sun once, briefly, on my birthday! Made my day.

Looking forward to yet more celebrating in Toronto and Kingston. :) Four birthdays in one year, not bad.

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