Agra - home of the highest concentration of annoying Indian men ever

After getting settled and happy in Varanasi just in time to leave, I spent a full day and night on trains and arrived here in Agra - tired, sick (flu? cold?), hungry, and strongly considering jumping on the next train to Haridwar without even seeing the city. I actually scouted out the train schedule and tried to book one that left the next hour, but was told I'd have to buy a unreserved second class ticket. That sealed the deal; while I wasn't anxious to brave the touts and rickshaw-drivers and hassles of Agra, I DEFINITELY wasn't going to take a shot at the craziness of second class unreserved trains (just seeing the lines at the ticket window - as in, masses of pushing, shoving, shouting men - was enough to dissuade me). So here I am.

I'd told my parents and Tom that I was going to skip the Taj Mahal this trip (partly cost, partly I feel it's not necessary to see more than one Wonder of the World within a year and I'd appreciate it more next time), but I of course changed my mind. It's pretty incredible. I really wish I'd brought some sketching or art supplies with me (the surrounding gardens and lawns are a good spot to chill and paint), but I'm happy with photos. They also capture the beauty of the white marble better than charcoal would! I was also impressed by the whole atmosphere. The grounds are large and open, giving the feeling that you can fully breathe and relax, even with the hundreds of tourists milling about. It rarely feels crowded. And when it does, the crowds are at least partly composed of women in lots of colourful saris, so it's worth it.

The only problem is the men. In my 2 hours spent at the Taj, I got asked for a photo by approximately 20 men. At first I thought they wanted me to take a photo of them and their friends and I was all to happy to oblige, but then it became clear that they wanted a posed shot of me (luckily not doing the half-reclined-on-a-bench shot that seems so popular at the Taj). Unfortunately, they didn't know I was tired, sick, thirsty and therefore very, VERY grumpy. I humoured a couple of them but slowly got more and more irritated by their demands. "Excuse me, madam! One photo!" seems pleasant and courteous until they continue shouting it at you and following you with their face about a foot from yours. Eventually I couldn't stand it, after one guy upped the ante:
-Excuse me, madam, I want one photo.
-Sorry, I'm not in the mood today.
-Just one photo here in front...
-OK, since you're the first person who's actually expressed an interest in including the Taj in the picture.
-If you don't mind, madam, over here.
-Sure.
-If you don't mind madam, please remove your bag.
-OK.
-If you don't mind madam, please move closer.
-Um, this is just fine where I am.
-(moving closer) If you don't mind, madam, my arm on your shoulder.
-Actually, yes, I do mind a little. (moving away)
-Madam, if you don't mind!...
-That is not necessary. I DO mind.
-MADAM, it is a simple thing!
-I'm sorry, I am leaving, have a good day.
-Excuse me, it is not a matter of good day! It will be a good day when my hand is on your shoulder.
-Excuse me, good bye. You will stop harrassing me!
At the word 'harrassing' he seemed to drop it, although I didn't turn around to see if he followed me. Good lord.

That was the end of Alyssa posing for Indian tourists' photos. Now I'm seeking refuge at an internet cafe, and this afternoon I'll head to Fatehpur Sikri (outside Agra) where I hope to find fewer annoying men. Wish me luck.